Pemba Dorje supplied evidence of his Everest ascent to an enquiry |
The authorities in Nepal have upheld
the record of Pemba Dorje Sherpa as the fastest Mount Everest climber.
The announcement follows an enquiry into his ascent of the world's tallest
mountain earlier this year.
Twelve Everest summiteers questioned Pemba's record last June, arguing that
he had not even reached the summit.
All of the complainants were Everest summiteers, including Lakpa Gelu Sherpa
whose speed record Pemba broke in eight hours and 10 minutes.
Evidence checked
Upholding Pemba's claim, the tourism ministry said that his team had proof
that the Everest summit was reached on 20 May.
It said the evidence cross-checked by the team included flags, photographs
and a written document which he had seen or collected on his ascent of the 8,850 m peak.
There has been bitter disagreement over who holds the Everest record |
The ministry said that Pemba had contacted a government official at Everest's
base camp to inform them regularly of his progress, and had given a detailed description of items left at the mountain by
a climber who reached it a day before him.
The investigators also said that they had seen photographs taken by other
mountaineers that showed Pemba going up Mount Everest.
The complainants had argued that no one had seen him going up or coming down.
The BBC's Navin Khadka in Kathmandu says that the enquiry's conclusions mean
that Pemba is now officially confirmed as having beaten Lakpa's record of 10 hours and 56 minutes last year.
Claim and counter-claim
Our Correspondent says that the two men are bitter rivals, constantly challenging
each other over claims as to how fast they have climbed Everest
The bickering began last year, when Lakpa Gelu Sherpa climbed the world's
tallest peak in a record-breaking 10 hours and 56 minutes.
Three days earlier, Pemba Dorje Sherpa made it to the top in 12 hours and
45 minutes. He then filed a complaint at the tourism ministry claiming that Lakpa's feat was not proven.
The government launched an investigation which finally upheld Lakpa's record.
When Pemba made it to the top in a new time of eight hours and 10 minutes,
he in turn was questioned along similar lines by Lakpa and the other Everest summiteers.
They argued that the weather was so bad on the day Pemba claimed to have reached
the peak that no expedition group on Everest could continue their climbs.
They also said that the evidence Pemba submitted at the tourism ministry does
not justify his claim that he reached the summit.